Palma in winter, from someone who stays all year
The weather, the shorter hours, the January festival and the almond trees, for a stay between December and February.
Most of our guests come between May and October. I like the city better in January. Here's what to expect if you come between December and February.
Palma weather in winter
Spain's weather agency keeps averages for 1981 to 2010 at its station in Palma's port. In January, the average high is 15.4°C and the average low is 8.3°C. December is a little warmer, with an average high of 16.5°C. Each winter month has about six days of rain. January gets 167 hours of sun. Pack a coat for the evenings and sunglasses for lunch outside.
What changes in the old town
The cathedral keeps shorter hours. In winter it opens at 10:00 and closes at 15:15 on weekdays, earlier on Saturday. Tourist visits stop on Sundays. The terraces on its roof close December to March, so the climb waits for spring. Mercat de l'Olivar keeps its usual days, Monday to Saturday from 7:00.
At Can Arbós, Aljub moves indoors November to April. You eat around the old cistern of the house, under the vaults.
Sant Sebastià, 19 and 20 January
Sant Sebastià is the patron saint of Palma, and his day is 20 January. The big night is the 19th. People light bonfires in the squares, called foguerons, and grill meat over them. The grills have their own name, torradoras. There are concerts, giant costumed heads and xeremiers, who play the xeremia, our island bagpipe. Look out for the Drac de na Coca. The story says this dragon, shaped like a crocodile, ran through Palma in the 17th century. Its body is still in the Museum of Religious Art.
Almond blossom
The almond trees on the island start to flower in late December, and the groves stay white until March. You won't see them in the old town. Bunyola is about 25 minutes away by car, and Selva about 35. Son Servera holds an almond blossom fair in late January and early February. Ask us for a driver the evening before.
Christmas Eve
On the night of 24 December, Mallorca sings the Chant of the Sibyl. It's a medieval chant, and UNESCO lists it as Intangible Cultural Heritage. Ask me where to hear it, and go early for a seat.
What we do with you in winter
The courtyards walk runs all year for hotel guests, on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. The cooking class with our chef and the winery in Binissalem run all year too. The boats rest until spring. The sunset sail starts again in April, and the llaüt in May.
Staying four nights? In winter the fourth night is free.
On your first evening, I'll mark the sunny squares on your map. In January, lunch outside is my favourite hour of the day.
More from the journal
Things to do in Palma's old town, with walking times
Nine places within 20 minutes on foot, ordered by walking time, with the hours that matter.
Mallorcan food to try in Palma's old town, and when to eat it
Kitchen hours, the dishes to order, lunch at the market and the bakeries, from someone who eats here every day.
Free room cancellation up to 7 days before arrival.