Journal

Things to do in Palma's old town, with walking times

Nine places within 20 minutes on foot, ordered by walking time, with the hours that matter.

By Aina Ferrer, concierge

A woman looking out from a stone terrace among the flying buttresses of the cathedral, over the roofs and the bay

I'm Aina, the concierge at Can Arbós. Guests ask me what to see almost every morning, so here's my answer on one page. Every time below is the walk from our door in La Calatrava. We measured each route on a map and rounded it up. On the stone streets, you'll probably walk a little slower than the map.

Seven minutes: the Arab Baths

Start small. The baths sit in the garden of Can Pit, on Carrer de Can Serra. Their central room has a ring of columns, and it was the hot bath of a private house. A warm room and a second hot room survive beside it. I like them first thing in the morning.

Ten minutes: the cathedral, the Almudaina and Plaça Major

Three places are ten minutes away. The cathedral dates from the 13th century, and its nave is about 44 metres high. Inside, look for the canopy by Gaudí and the ceramic mural by Miquel Barceló, which is 12 metres tall. April to October, it opens 10:00 to 17:15 on weekdays and until 14:15 on Saturday. Tourist visits stop on Sundays.

The Almudaina Palace is next door. It began as a Roman building, and the Moors later rebuilt it. Today it's one of the residences of the Spanish royal family. You can visit the parade ground, the Gothic chapel of Santa Anna, the Islamic baths and the terraces over the bay.

Plaça Major is the same distance to the north. I use it as a meeting point when friends get lost.

Thirteen and fourteen minutes: the Born, the market and the park

On Passeig del Born, look into the courtyard of Casal Solleric. The Morell family built the house in the middle of the 18th century, and it now shows contemporary art.

Mercat de l'Olivar has fed Palma since 1951. Go before lunch, when the stalls are full. The tapas counters serve until 16:00, and some restaurants upstairs will cook what you buy downstairs. The market closes on Sundays.

Parc de la Mar lies below the cathedral, by the old sea walls. The cathedral is reflected in its water. I take friends there at the end of the day.

A stone patio with arches and a staircase seen through an open wooden street door

Eighteen and twenty minutes: La Llotja and Es Baluard

La Llotja was the meeting place of Palma's merchants. Guillem Sagrera designed it, and its columns rise like stone palm trees into the vaults. The streets around it have plenty of places to eat.

Es Baluard is the museum of modern and contemporary art, built into the old city walls. It opened in 2004. The collection has more than 700 works, with Miró and Picasso among them.

If you only have one day in Palma

See the Arab Baths at 10:00 and the cathedral at 11:00. Eat lunch at the market. After the heat, walk the Born and finish at Es Baluard. On a Sunday, the cathedral and the market are closed to visitors, so walk to Parc de la Mar and along the Born instead.

Two things I book for you

The cathedral terraces need a time slot, so tell me the day before. And three mornings a week, I walk guests through the courtyards of the old town myself. Ask me at the door, or book the walk from My stay.

Old town courtyards walk

The nine places on one map

1Arab Baths · 7 min 2Palma Cathedral · 10 min 3Plaça Major · 10 min 4Almudaina Palace · 10 min 5Passeig del Born · 13 min 6Mercat de l'Olivar · 14 min 7Parc de la Mar · 14 min 8La Llotja · 18 min 9Es Baluard · 20 min Can Arbós MALLORCAPalmathe old town, on foot from Can Arbós N 200 m Badia de Palma Map data © OpenStreetMap contributors

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